Cuba is one of those countries that you could spend months in, especially if you have a journalistic bent. It is a land of opposites, paradoxes and deep culture.
Over three trips, we experienced the classic Cuba - the great tobacco growing region of Pinar Del Rio, extravagant dance shows at the Tropicana, drinking fifty year old rum, and great Cuban cuisine. We experienced the not-so-well-known Cuba - a large transvestite and gay population hanging out and dancing all night at the Fiat dealer, storms that blew manhole covers 100 feet in the air from the seaside surf, young hipsters and artists pushing the limits of Cuban laws and traditions.
There is a strong Catholic tradition that permeates the culture and a disturbingly large number of prostitutes, especially after they lost Russia as their sponsor. There is strong dislike of the American government but the main currency by far is the US dollar. One of the effects of the US embargo is that the Cubans have found ways to keep these 50 year old American cars working (above). Much of the city of Havana looks like it has not been painted in 50 years as well but it has a very certain charm.
There are so many things to see - You should visit the cigar factories like Partagus in Havana, though not after a hangover, as fresh tobacco is one of the strongest smells in the world. Havana is made for walking and just walking the streets you experience the real Cuba. You can just walk for hours at a time constantly being surprised. The country has a unique type of restaurant called "Paladares", which are usually about five tables and in someone's living room. The food is excellent and cooked by the family living there. It would be great to see these excellent, intimate micro-restaurants in so many other countries. And while the Tropicana is very good, you will see a better, wonderfully imperfect dance show at many of the second and third class clubs.
Che Guevera (above) is a hero to Cubans and signs of him are everywhere. He is a very interesting man but like many revolutionaries, he was better at revolution than than building things. He left Cuba and died in Bolivia after being chased down by the army trying to stop him from building a revolution there.
We were struck by how Cubans are always dancing, singing and celebrating. In general, we have found that the more a culture dances, the happier they are. This gathering (above) on the other hand, was an Elian Gonzalez protest, where thousands of people were trucked in on the back of dump trucks for a ready made protest and photo opp. The kids did not really understand what was going on and were simply having a good time yelling and dancing. Elian was returned 3 days later from his extended family in Florida to his father in Cuba.
Most connoisseurs believe the best tobacco in the world is grown in the far west in the very photogenic Pinar del Rio area. It is an easy to drive there from Havana, in a couple of hours on a highway where you may see 10 cars at most, along the way.
In the Old Cuba, this field worker, harvests tobacco for the the world's best cigars, as he has done for forty years in Pinar Del Rio.
In the New Cuba, this surfer from Varadero Beach held the world record for the most face piercings. Over the next 5-10 years much will change in Cuba. Ultimately, the embargo will be lifted and Americans and Cubans will travel and trade freely. Fidel Castro will not live a lot longer and his brother is expected to provide more freedoms and relax controls. We would be big fans of this, as Cuba is definitely one of the coolest places in the world.
Best Time to Go: During the US winter with better weather
How Long to Stay: 7-10 days
General Costs: Medium
What To Do: Visit Old Havana, Pinar Del Rio, Paladares restaurant, dance shows,
UNESCO World Heritage Site? Yes for both Old Havana and Vinales Valley where the tobacco growing area of Pinar Del Rio is located.
Weather: Hot
Language: Mostly Spanish with plenty of English speakers
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